OnePlus 5 Pro Mode

  1. G_Suraj_Menon_mkhG Eclair Jul 8, 2017

    G_Suraj_Menon_mkhG, Jul 8, 2017 :
    Hey guys! Can anyone help me understand the effects and settings of the Pro mode of the camera? How do I make the best out of it?

  2. danielmajer Honeycomb Jul 8, 2017

    danielmajer, Jul 8, 2017 :
    Hi, this is the explanation of the manual mode in the OnePlus 3T (it's almost the same thing)
    This "tutorial" was not made by me and all credit goes to @Henaway

    It comes up frequently (in many forums): "I don't use a dSLR camera, but want to see what is possible with this phone's camera in manual mode. What do the settings mean, and what happens when I change them?"

    There are entire books dedicated to the subject, and it can be wildly complicated - and intimidating - for those with no prior experience.

    The best thing to do, since you can see what is happening in real time as you adjust settings, is to plan some time in various lighting situations and just experiment. Get together with a couple of friends, and have some fun! But here are some basics as far as lighting and photography goes. (I'll leave out settings like manual focus, because that one really is self-explanatory.)

    In manual exposures, there are three things that affect the 'brightness' (and to a degree, sharpness) of the image - shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. There is also white balance - often referred to as colour temperature. (Color for the non-Canadians out there!)

    I'll start with white balance, since that one is pretty quick to explain. Our eyes naturally do this on their own - they compensate for the "colour temperature" of the light in a room to distinguish white as white instead of yellow or blue, depending on the light source. Think of headlights on cars at night - some are the old yellowish looking ones, some of the new LED and HID/Xenon lights fall into the "pure white" or "bluish" look. All light sources have their own colour cast, but camera sensors can't distinguish between them without some help. So adjusting the white balance to a warmer (lower K ... for degrees Kelvin) or cooler (higher K value) value will make your photo's colours more accurate, based one where white actually appears white when you look at it. (You can also use this setting to make sunrises/sunsets much warmer, more golden than they actually appear by using a lower K setting.)

    Okay. Now we have the dance that shutter speed, aperture, and ISO do with each other.

    I'll start with shutter speed. This is the length of time that the image sensor in your camera (or, the film back in the old days) is actually exposed to light. This can range from thousandths of a second, to many seconds. A fast shutter speed is great for capturing quick action without motion blur - and makes it harder to get blurry images from shaky hands. A slow shutter speed lets more light hit the sensor, but can introduce motion shake if you're not using a tripod. Long shutters are great for astrophotography (stars, auroras, etc), light trails (headlights/taillights on a highway), and such - but you WILL need a tripod for some of those 15-30 second exposure times. Personally, I've managed to get 1 second exposures handheld, without a lot of shake, but it is NOT easy. Once you start dipping below 1/30th, it's time to look at a tripod or something to lean on for stability.

    Unless you're in very bright light, you will need a wide aperture (lower f-value. IE: f/2.0 is not as wide as an f/1.7) and/or higher ISO value for fast shutter speeds in order to get enough light on the sensor. The camera in the OP3 has a fixed aperture (f/2.0), so it is not part of our equation, as it would if you were working with an SLR lens with a variable aperture. That means you have to compensate with the ISO values.

    ISO is essentially the 'sensitivity' of the camera sensor. A low ISO value means you need to get more exposure to get a well lit photo. Generally though, the lower the ISO, the better for clarity. As ISO increases, so does 'grain' (in film) or 'noise' (in digital). The complaints we often see about "noisy" low light photos in auto mode are from the camera app compensating for a faster shutter with a higher ISO value.

    So, the values of each setting directly impact each other. It's like a little lighting dance. When you find the right combination, magic happens.

    The beauty of using our phones the way we can is we can change settings on the fly, and see the results previewed in real time! And if we blow a shot, we can just delete it and start over. It's a whole lot of fun to shoot manually, if you have the desire to try something different. Your worst case scenarios are shots that are over or under exposed, or have a weird white balance. But if you are shooting in RAW, you can most often correct those in editing. (Snapseed is really good with raw photos if you want an on-device solution .. I prefer Lightroom on my laptop.) Give it a go, have some fun, and let's see your results!

    This is a gross oversimplification, but just intended as a very basic primer on what the settings are, and the effects that they have. Cheers!

    (Thanks again to @Henaway for this)

  3. Orestisc Cupcake Jul 9, 2017

    Orestisc, Jul 9, 2017 :
    Hi there,
    a very nice post explaining the functions above, but I could summarize/simplify it in a few practical cases:

    Most useful functions for me:
    1. Raw: holds more information than JPEGs, and using a raw developer app such as Snapseed mentioned above, you can recover way more highlights and shadows from your image. You can use that when you have very contrasty scenes that require a lot of dynamic range.
    2. Shutter Speed: controls brightness (actual light information that comes in) and motion blur. You can use slow shutter speeds in the Pro app, up to 30 seconds. Then you can either allow a lot more light in to brighten the image, or do long-exposure photography by blurring out any motion to extreme levels. This can allow for effects such as water being silky smooth. You would need a tripod for most of the slow shutter speed photos.
    3. ISO: it controls brightness (just brightens the pixels) but has the side effect of noise. Higher is brighter and noisier. It balances out with the Shutter Speed to get your exposure, since aperture is out of the equation. Sometimes you have to set it manually to get the correct brightness for long exposure photography, other times you have to set it high to get quick shots at low light.
    4. Horizon Level and Histogram HUD elements: The horizon level helps you to make straight photos. If it's crooked like it was for me, you can recalibrate the sensors to solve it:https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/...rometer-magnetometer-gyroscope-sensor.405894/
    Histogram helps you to see how many pixels are how bright. Sometimes the screen preview can fool you depending on the ambient light conditions and this can help you to take properly exposed photos and to avoid overexposing or underexposing big parts of the image.

    Other functions:
    4. White Balance: It controls the color shifting and can counter the colorization of the ambient light. Shooting in raw can allow you to change the white balance later. But using a manual white balance can be useful to have the same value for all the photos you take on the same place, so you can apply the same adjustments to all of them.
    5. Exposure Compensation. This is basically to adjust your brightness when #2 and/or #3 are set to Auto. It will offset them accordingly.
    6. Focusing can be done with a slider instead of touch-to-focus.
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2017

  4. G_Priyanka_Daga_Vrxl Eclair Jul 9, 2017

    G_Priyanka_Daga_Vrxl, Jul 9, 2017 :
    thank you for this post! understood most of the features. didn't understand ISO. will experiment and learn

    danielmajer likes this.
  5. G_Nikhil_Yadav_AJTD Cupcake Jul 17, 2017

  6. americorloliveira Honeycomb Jul 17, 2017

  7. F_Dhrumil_Parekh_bKar Donut Jul 17, 2017

  8. Sven Erik Rebane Gingerbread Jul 17, 2017

    Sven Erik Rebane, Jul 17, 2017 :
    It depends on the situation, in photography there isn't one go to solution. If you give me info about the picture you would want to take and what are the conditions I could help you to figure what would be best for that.

  9. G_Antonio_Taylor_XNiZ Donut Jul 17, 2017

    G_Antonio_Taylor_XNiZ, Jul 17, 2017 :
    YouTube DSLR user videos, there is no best way to use it but this will give you a better understanding of how to utilize the various features

  10. G_Nikhil_Yadav_AJTD Cupcake Jul 18, 2017

    G_Nikhil_Yadav_AJTD, Jul 18, 2017 :
    I kinda go with warm color...hot ...just give me any pro mode setting so that I can take raw(any you prefer)...

  11. Sven Erik Rebane Gingerbread Jul 18, 2017

    Sven Erik Rebane, Jul 18, 2017 :
    not that easy as there is a lot of variables still to consider but I will add a little description of the pro mode that I posted in another thread.

    "Although you explain it Betty well I feel like I should kinda correct few things.

    1. ISO

    It's not that simple as "lower the better". Since ISO is how sensitive your camera is to light. So wether ISO should be low or high depends on lighting. Usually lower the light the lower your ISO should be cause you want it to be less sensitive cause otherwise you image can be overexposed. This is short description, if you want to get even better understanding I found this article on it


    2. White Balance

    As far as I've tested this camera(3days) the white balance on auto is best for most use cases. So not much worries on that

    3. Shutter speed

    This is the length of time your cameras shutter is open, wether you want it high or low depends on what your doing. For example most common use for slow shutter speed is when taking pictures of streams and falls cause you want to bring the moving water out, another use cases is to show speed. But if you want to take a clear picture(Only shutter speed won't bring out a clear picture) of an object high shutter speed is required. As before I will leave you an article to read if you want to know more.


    4. Focus

    Focus is just the thing on the image you want to be clear and I usually just end up using autofocus since I can't focus better manually.

    PS! By clicking on the screen you can change focal point.

    5. Aspect ratio

    Don't underestimate the importance of this in a good picture but to explain it is way too long so here, an article to read about it.


    6. RAW or not RAW

    If you use PRO, then shoot raw, easy as that.

    For the finish I should mention I"m not a professional photographer and if you want use PRO mode you will have to practice and read to take marvelous pictures."

    G_Nikhil_Yadav_AJTD likes this.
  12. G_Nikhil_Yadav_AJTD Cupcake Jul 18, 2017

    G_Nikhil_Yadav_AJTD, Jul 18, 2017 :
    thanks for the articles :)
    here are some of my clicks.
    the 20 mp camera(2xzoom) works great for macro...

    with 2x zoom

    without 2x zoom... it's just awesome !!

    just imagine if I clicked this in 2x zoom...

    My friend trying hard to get the perfect shot




    And here's the problem with me in the pro mode...I need to learn a lot...

  13. G_Nikhil_Yadav_AJTD Cupcake Jul 18, 2017

  14. Sven Erik Rebane Gingerbread Jul 18, 2017

    Sven Erik Rebane, Jul 18, 2017 :
    yes but these pics are better then what I have made on my OP5, same thing need to learn but all of the pictures look good except 1. which has about too much light also if you're taking a landscape picture like of the sea, use a higher aspect ratio.

  15. Sven Erik Rebane Gingerbread Jul 18, 2017

    G_Nikhil_Yadav_AJTD likes this.
  16. G_Nikhil_Yadav_AJTD Cupcake Jul 18, 2017

    G_Nikhil_Yadav_AJTD, Jul 18, 2017 :
    yeah I'll take in 16:9 for landscape .
    well again thanks for articles and tips :)