Photo Editing for Beginners - [A Guide]

  1. NeVeR_SeTTLe
    The Lab - OnePlus 6 Reviewer Nov 12, 2018

    NeVeR_SeTTLe , Nov 12, 2018 :
    Good morning / Good afternoon / Good evening to everybody that visits my thread ;) Now get some popcorn and a glass of your favorite drink, sit back and enjoy the lecture ;)

    Some people ask me either in the Shot on OnePlus thread by @script or by direct messaging me on how do I edit my pictures. I will get on to that a little bit later down the road but first I want to say something about photography.

    Photography is an art. Period. Nothing more, nothing less. So what is art? Art is what you make it to be. Picture this – You are an artist holding a brush facing a white canvas and your imagination kicks in on what to paint. Well that is pretty similar to photography. You are holding a camera instead of a brush and you imagine your scene that you want to shoot. Before shooting the scene, you have to think about what grabs your attention. Is it maybe a flower that is alone in the field which looks fun to capture? Is it a bumbling bee buzzing over some flowers in the terrain? Or maybe it’s an older person in the rain shivering from the cold? You have to decide what will capture your audience. That is the first thing in photography that you must decide to do. So, to sum it up, photography is an art which you decide on what message you want to relate to your audience. Simple, right?

    Moving on, let’s take it a little further. You know the scene that you want to capture and why. Great! You take a picture and you look at the picture afterwards and you seem pretty happy with it. Let’s stop right here and backtrack. Before taking a picture of the scene, you have to think about perspective and composition. These two go hand in hand. What do they mean to me?

    Let’s start with perspective. To put it simply, perspective is the relationship between objects in a photograph. You might be scratching your head right now saying, “WHAT!?” Let me expand on that thought. Perspective is a way of showing space, depth and distance in a picture. Let’s look at the picture I shot in Poznan, Poland.

    As you look at the picture above, it gives you a sense as if you were standing right in the picture. It creates this surreal vision which adds depth. The photograph I shot is a two-dimensional representation of that three-dimensional world and, therefore, our visual perception in 3D does not see the photograph in the same way we see what is before us. Our world is a 3D world and we have 3D vision, in which we can determine the relative distance of the various objects in our view.

    There are several perspectives:
    - Linear – The farther an object is from the lens, the smaller it appears. This takes me back to lenses. Telephoto lenses “shrink” a scene. This is an example of linear perspective. (Take a look at @Bouncer71 thread about lenses here)
    - Rectilinear – Most of our lenses produce a rectilinear perspective except with the exception of the fish eye lens. Parallel lines make an interesting example because they will eventually meet in a far distance.
    - Height – The closer an object is to the horizon line, the farther away it is. A perfect example for this would be a landscape photo. If you have a river that is extending to the horizon and above the river are clouds – the river in the foreground is the farthest from the horizon and is closer to the photographer just as the clouds near the top of the frame are closer to the photographer than those near the horizon.
    - Overlap – Imagine you have different objects that are overlapping in your frame. The objects that are closer to the camera obstruct the objects that are farther away. This overlapping gives the viewer a sense of depth and perspective of the distance between objects in reality.
    - Size – Two or more objects of the same size in a photograph are of the same distance from those objects to the photographer. For example, if you place two people of different sizes, person A is bigger than person B, then automatically we expect the bigger person to be closer to the camera.
    - Volume – If an object casts a shadow, the shadow gives the viewer information about the shape and size of the object in return giving the image depth. In real life, we see examples of this like the crescent moon with a faint penumbra or a portrait with a face half lit on one side and the other dark.
    - Atmospheric – If it is a snowy or rainy day, greater distance equals more air through which light must travel. Therefore, objects seen at distance, may start to lack sharpness, contrast and color.

    Next up is composition. Composition is the arrangement of visual elements inside your frame. A lot of things make up composition like
    - Rules of Thirds
    - Framing
    - Leading Lines
    - Patterns and Textures
    - Angles
    - Simplicity

    Rules of Thirds – I will start out with this picture:

    We are all familiar with the grid. The whole point of this grid is to not place the main subject in the center but around one of the intersecting points. It's done by simply dividing your scene into thirds, horizontally and vertically. The four intersecting points are all sweet spot areas. To balance your image, you place your main subject a third of the way across the frame.
    Framing – I’ll quote Richie Norton here, “Like creating a masterpiece, quitting is an art: you have to decide what to keep within the frame and what to keep out.” That pretty much sums it up. You have to frame your objects, subjects and everything you want to relate to your audience in the frame. So whatever you think is important to you, you put it in your frame. Framing actually adds depth and gives context to your picture.
    Leading Lines - Leading lines is a technique in which lines within the photograph lead the viewer's eye when looking at an image. The lines must capture the viewer's attention and guide their eye through the photo. An example is this picture I shot in Wroclaw, Poland:

    Patterns and Textures – Look for patterns and shapes that intrigue the eye. It could be of buildings, objects, materials or anything you find that has a unique surface quality. It adds interest and also adds a sense of sight and sense of touch. Below is my picture I shot in Wroclaw, Poland:

    Angles – Angles make the audience see a deeper and more interesting perspective of a photo through the eyes of the photographer. Let’s say you have a scene of a person who is standing with an umbrella in the rain with a long black coat to the floor. You have to decide at which angle you want to portray this person so that it will have a powerful impact on your audience. What do you want to relate to the audience? But before we answer this question, let’s take a look at what type of angles you can shoot at.
    - Eye Level – This is the most used type. You aim your camera straight and shoot whether you are standing or sitting.
    - Low Angle – Your camera will be below your main subject. Usually you place your camera on the ground and aim it up to reflect height, power or authoritativeness. You usually shoot like this when shooting foliage, the sky, cumulous clouds or if you want to portray an importance above your main subject.
    - High Angle – Your camera will be above your main subject. Usually you place your camera on a tall tripod or with your hands up in the air to make your main subject appear small or insignificant. This angle creates a more dramatic impact in your photograph.
    - Over-the-Shoulder – When two people are talking, the speaker’s face is shown while your camera’s placement will be aimed over the shoulder of the listener.
    Getting back to the question, “What do you want to relate to your audience?” – You should think of what impact it will have on you and the viewer. So maybe you want to capture that person’s long black coat that is reaching to the ground – so you would shoot at a high angle, or maybe his face is more interesting so you would want to get close to the person to capture his face’s contour.
    - Simplicity – Believe it or not, simplicity is one of the most important rules in composition. Simplicity simply means making the main subject stand out from its surroundings. This can be done by making the background blurred, completely out of focus or empty. The reason behind this is to draw the person’s attention to the main subject to better help the viewer appreciate it.

    Now that you know what photography is and what to look for when shooting your pictures, let me talk about some tips before your finger presses on that shutter button.


    1. Always shoot in Pro Mode – I stress here the word “Always”. In the day, pictures come out great even when shooting in Auto Mode. So why would you want to shoot in Pro Mode in the day? The only reason is to generate a RAW file. RAW files are .DNG files which retain much information and detail in the picture. You can then edit your picture very easily without losing any detail whatsoever. With .JPG files, when you start editing the picture, you lose the quality of the picture.
    2. Use a Tripod for longer Shutter Speeds – Anything below 1/5s needs a tripod. You can take a picture hand held below 1/5s if you have a steady hand or some other supportive element near you where you can rest your hands, but a tripod is much more comfortable.
    3. Low ISO/Long Shutter Speed at night time – When shooting at night time or in low light conditions, make sure you have your ISO set at 100 to reduce noise in your picture. This is where my second point above comes in play. You will need a tripod to shoot at a low ISO and longer Shutter Speed. If you want to shoot hand held then you will need to crank up that ISO value and set your Shutter Speed to a shorter time to get a crispy picture but that will introduce noise. You can do this and post process it later but just remember that when you reduce noise in post processing, you will introduce some softness and lose some detail. So my recommendation if you are shooting hand held, see first how long you can hold your smart phone without any movement and then set your ISO value. For example, I found out that I can do 1s of a Shutter Speed hand held without any movement. Then I set the value of my ISO starting from the lowest and see how the picture comes out. Try out different ISO values and see what looks good to you.
    4. Always Use the Histogram – Histograms are wonderful because you can see if you are exposing the picture correctly. When you are setting your ISO and Shutter Speed you will see the histogram change. A perfect exposed histogram is where everything is centered without clipping the highlights or shadows. An example of a correctly exposed histogram:

    5. Expose to the Right – This rule is mostly applied when shooting landscapes. The whole point of this rule is when you expose your image to the right, you are preserving much detail in the highlights and shadows. This method also reduces noise too. You will have your histogram to guide you but only to a certain point at night time. At night, when you will make your shutter speed longer you will see that the histogram will go to the right but then stop even when you make your Shutter Speed longer. So you have to estimate how long of a shutter speed you need. This will be trial and error. You will have to keep setting your Shutter Speed until you see a perfectly exposed to the right histogram in the “details” section of the image. Here is an example of a correctly exposed to the right histogram.

    6. Set your White Balance – I always like to set my White Balance before taking a picture. How do I correctly set the White Balance? You have some White Balance options like Tungsten, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, etc. You can use them or you can use your eyes and then set your White Balance to what your eyes see. That is what I usually do. At night time, 60% of the time, I set my White Balance manually but 40% of the time, I usually aim for Tungsten. Now, if you forget to set your White Balance before taking a shot then no worries, you can do that easily in post processing. The only reason why I do it is because it’s much `easier for me when editing my pictures.
    7. Light up Portrait Photography - For portrait photography, turn off beautification mode. Make sure that your subject is properly lit. Lighting plays a major role in portrait photography so make sure that you find a light source and at night, take advantage of the lamp posts, street lights and other lights you find when taking portraits. Same applies for selfies! ;)
    8. Presets Kill Creativity (Post Processing Tip) – I like presets but they kill your creativity when editing your pictures. You want to get better at editing pictures, then I suggest you manually edit them. Manually editing your pictures will not only make your picture look more how you want them to look but it will teach you on how to edit pictures correctly within time. Don’t get me wrong, I am not bashing on presets. I sometimes use a preset but then I edit that preset to my liking. Experiment with presets too but see what you can add more to a preset. Play with the presets settings in the basic panel and other panels. Change the values and see what you come up with.

    Now that I gave you some pointers before pressing that shutter button, we can continue with the final part of my guide – how to edit pictures ;) I will be using Adobe Lightroom Desktop version to edit my pictures. If you edit pictures using Adobe LIghtroom or Adobe Photoshop Mobile, then it is practically almost the same. For those who like to use other editing programs, no problem, use what editing program you feel comfortable with as most third party programs follow a similar structure.
    I will take and edit three pictures. The first picture is a night time picture. The second one is a day time picture. The last one is a portrait picture.

    Night Time

    The picture I picked for editing is a picture that I took of the Cathedral Twin Towers in Wroclaw at night time.

    If you look at my histogram, you can see that this picture is underexposed with the shadows clipping. The reason why I took this picture like this is to show you how to turn an underexposed picture into a beautiful one. ;)
    First thing I do to a picture is to straighten it up. To do this, pull up the “Transform” panel on the right as you see in the picture below:

    In the “Transform” panel you have some options to pick. I only use two of them. Either Auto or Level. 80% of times they work well but the other 20% of the time they don’t. Experiment with it and see what works best for you. If Auto and Level won’t work for you, then I suggest you use the sliders to manually adjust the picture. For this photo, I picked the Level option as the Auto option cut too much of the lower part of the picture which I wanted to be included. As you can see from the photo below, the before and after picture when applied the Level option.

    Once I straightened up my picture, I move on to the Basics Panel as you see in the picture below:

    In the Basics Panel, the first thing I look for is my White Balance Selector.

    As mentioned in my above tips, if you set your White Balance in your camera then you can skip this section and move on. Otherwise, get your White Balance Selector tool and click on a pixel that should be neutral gray, not white nor black. Look at the picture below to see what I mean:

    Once you click on a neutral grey pixel, your image will get adjusted so that the selected pixel is a neutral gray and as a result, all the color in your image will change.

    As you see from the picture above, the colors changed to a brighter red color when you look at the Cathedral Twin Towers building.
    Once my image has the correct White Balance, I then move on to the highlights and shadows sliders.
    The highlights slider controls the brightest tones of your image. When you move the highlights slider to the left, you are making the brightest parts darker and when you move the slider to the right, you are making the same parts brighter.

    The shadows slider makes the dark parts of your image brighter when you move it to the left and when you move it to the right, the dark parts become darker. Don’t get confused with the Exposure slider, which affects the whole image while the shadows slider only affects the parts of the image that are very dark and disregarding the rest.

    Most of you probably drag the highlights slider all the way to the left and you open up the shadow areas by dragging the slider all the way to the right. I will tell you why this is a bad idea to expose your images correctly. Not all the time you have to do this. When the picture is underexposed, like this example picture I have, you then touch your shadow sliders and expose all the way to the right. I still won’t go all the way to the right because when you open up the shadow areas all the way up, you introduce more noise in the picture. When you have an overexposed picture, you move your highlights slider to the left. Don’t go crazy with it. Look at your histogram and see if those two triangles at the top right and top left are not lit in any color. That is how you know that your highlights and shadows aren't clipping. So in this picture, I would leave the highlights as they are. The only thing I would do is to increase the shadow areas. With this picture I increased my shadow areas to the value 70. As you can see from my picture below, the darker areas are a little bit more lit.

    As you can see in the lower part of the picture, there was already noise in the before image and when I opened up the shadows I introduced more noise. (That is why in my tips section, I gave you guys a tip to expose to the right without clipping the highlights.) You would get less noise and more detailed picture. Now let’s work on this picture some more.
    The next thing I do is take care of the Whites and Blacks sliders.
    The Whites slider is related to the highlights but has a different impact on your picture. When you move the Whites slider to the right, you are making the white parts more pure white. (Tip: Hold down the ALT key and drag the Whites slider to the right. As you start moving the slider you will see that your image will turn all black and when going further to the right you might see some colorful dots appear. When those colorful dots appear, that means you are on the verge of clipping your highlights.)

    The Blacks slider affects how the darkest parts of your picture render. Most of the times, I move the slider to the left to give my pictures a more realistic punch but sometimes, you want to move it to the right to make the blacks more subtle. Play with this in your own leisure and see what kind of effect you want to deliver in your picture. (Tip: In my opinion, most of the times, I do want the Black level to be slightly clipped. The reason is simple – To make the darkest parts darker, which gives depth to your picture.)

    Looking at my picture, I left the White Slider alone because when I moved it to the right, I already saw some highlights clipping starting to show at the value +3. So, next, I adjusted my Blacks Slider to the left because when I moved it to the right, there was already a lot of clipping in the shadows, so in order to take some clipping away, I moved it to the value +25 which gave me a more subtle look when you look at the bottom of the picture on the road. You can see some road but in the before image, you clearly couldn't see the road that well. Now let’s see how the picture looks before and after:

    If you look at the above picture, you can already see some differences between these two pictures. Now, I leave everything else in the Basic’s Panel alone and will come back to this at a later stage.
    Next, let's go to the Tone Curve.

    By looking at the Tone Curve, you may be asking yourself a question: What’s the difference between adjusting highlights, shadows, blacks and whites in the Basics Panel compared to the Tone Curve Panel? My answer to you is this: Think of the Tone Curve Panel as an extension to the Basics Panel. It gives you more control over the tone and contrast. Remember, that whatever you do in the Tone Curve Panel won’t affect your Basic Panel adjustments. It is a separate panel for fine tuning your image further.
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2018

  2. NeVeR_SeTTLe
    The Lab - OnePlus 6 Reviewer Nov 12, 2018

    NeVeR_SeTTLe , Nov 12, 2018 :

    What I usually do here is play around and see what pleases my eyes. My parameters for this picture are as follows:

    I will skip the HSL/Color Panel as I will show you the power of this panel when I will edit my second picture which is shot in day light. It will better show you the effects of this panel.

    Next up is the Split Toning Panel that looks like this:

    As you see from the image above, we have 5 sliders. Two for highlights – hue and saturation and two for the shadows – hue and saturation and the last one which is called the Balance slider is responsible for pushing or pulling the balance towards either the shadows or highlights. Why should we use Split Toning? The reason to use Split Toning is to manipulate the colors independently in the highlight and shadow areas. For example, let’s say you notice in a picture that you have to much yellow in the highlights due to lots of lamp posts around. Perhaps your shadows are extremely blue because of the sky. You can add more blue to the lamp posts without damaging the sky in the shadows, as those might be blue already. Before continuing further, I will stress this – Split Toning is a creative process, so there is no right or wrong, it’s how you envision your picture. The best practice is to play around with it to see what are the changes and how they affect your image overall. Getting back to my picture, I want my image to pop out a little because right now it’s still too dull. So, I’ll play around with it until I find that I am pleased with my final results. These are my results for this picture:

    Big difference, right? When playing around with the Split Toning, I wanted the colors to come as much close to the real colors of the Cathedral Twin Towers. That is how they look like. That pop that I was talking there is there. ;)
    Moving on, I will edit the Details Panel.

    Looking at the picture above, we can already see there is lots of noise. We want to reduce noise as much as possible but at the same time keep a lot of details in the picture. This is tricky, very tricky to do. Most people I see are struggling with this panel. Let me tell you exactly what I do. First I tackle the Color Noise slider. Why? Because it’s the most easiest to fix. When you will move your Color Noise slider to the left, you will see blotchy spots disappear. The default color noise setting is usually 25 and it works well but you may want to increase it if you still see blotchy spots in your picture. The Detail and Smoothness sliders under the Color Noise Slider you leave as they are. Next, let’s tackle the Luminance Noise. Before doing this, zoom into your photo so that you can see the noise really well. After zooming in, then adjust your luminance noise. Go from 0 to 10. If you still see there is noise, then increment it from 10 to 20. Repeat with increments of 10 until you see the noise is almost gone. Increase the detail under the Luminance Noise slider from 50 to 60. Lastly, go into your Sharpening slider and increase with increments of 10 until you see that there is good detail without the introduction of noise. Look at bright areas while adjusting the sharpening slider as you will see more clearly the detail on those parts. The most important part in Sharpening is the Masking slider. What does the Masking slider do? I call this slider the “Magic Slider” as it will look for solid or smooth areas and try to “mask” or remove the sharpening from those areas. To see what will get sharpened and what won’t, press your ALT button and then while still holding your ALT button on your keyboard slide your Masking slider to the left and you will automatically see that your image will turn into black and white. See the picture below:

    The black areas are the areas that are not going to be sharpened, while the white areas are the areas that will be sharpened. I usually set my Masking slider between the values of 60 – 90 depending on the sharpening I want applied. Experiment with it.
    Next, I crop the image to make it neat and for it to stand out. Click the Crop tool

    and think about how you want to crop the image or if the image should be cropped at all. This is my cropped image:

    The adjustments that we made were all global adjustments, meaning that they affect the whole picture. The fun begins with the local adjustments. Where are the local adjustment tools? Look at the photo below:

    Let’s start from the far left. The first tool from the left side is called the Graduated Filter tool. Its job is to apply a range of effects on a selected controlled part of a photo. For example, the Graduated Filter tool is mostly used to enhance the skies and waters in landscape photography. I can control the direction of the Graduated Filter tool. This tool has a range of effect options like these:

    As you can see at the top of the menu, there are three tabs named "New", Edit" and "Brush". "New" is initially active by default. When you press the new button, you create an additional graduated filter. From there you can hover your cursor to any part of the photo, click and drag the graduated filter down, sideways, to the top, in which way you want. This will be the areas that will get affected. From those range of effects I mentioned earlier you can adjust to your liking. Experiment with these to make your pictures pop out more but don’t overdo it. ;)

    As in the picture above, the green highlighted part is showing you where the mask overlay will be applied. By default this is turned off, so the yellow highlighted part that reads, “Show Selected Mask Overlay” please check it on so that you know what parts in your picture you want to apply effects.
    The next tool after the Graduated Filter tool is the Radial Filter tool. This tool is an awesome tool that is used mostly in portrait photography but can be used in all types of photography too. It has the same range of effects as the Graduated Filter tool. (Tip: When you first apply a Radial Filter tool, you will automatically notice that the green highlights are outside of the circle instead of inside. Go to your Radial Panel and at the bottom click on “Invert Mask”. This will make the range of effects apply only inside the circle.)


    The last tool is the Adjustment Brush tool.

    With the Adjustment Brush tool you can modify specific image areas. You can easily manipulate single or multiple photo parameters like exposure, white balance, sharpness, noise, etc. The range of effects is the same as the other two.
    Getting back to the picture I am editing, I am going to use the Adjustment Brush to brush over everything except the Cathedral Twin Towers Church. Why? Well, I can reduce more noise. But why would I do this if I already did this in the Details Panel? Simple, I have more control over what part of the images area I want to reduce the noise. The second reason is because this picture was really noisy especially in the shadows as this picture wasn't properly exposed to the right.

    After applying the noise reduction using the Adjustment Brush tool, I then go back to my Detail’s Panel and reduce the amount of noise I applied, but increase the sharpness just a little.
    I will also add another Adjustment Brush and paint it only on the area of the sky and will play with the Temperature and the Tint. For my Temperature, I will put a value of -38 to add a cool atmosphere to the picture and a Tint of value +9.
    I still don’t like the image because the bottom part bothers me a lot.

    It lacks the detail and softness is creeping in there because probably I applied noise reduction, but we can fix this somewhat better. I am finished with my local adjustments so now the reason I told you before that I will come back to the Basic’s Panel is to do some final touches. I will add some contrast with a value of +11 and some clarity with a value of +30. I will make the image pop out more by increasing the Vibrance to a value of +20 and the Saturation to +25. I will bump also the exposure to +0,26.
    The last thing I do after finishing up with the Basics Panel is look into the Effect Panel to see if some vignetting can be applied.

    I usually see if vignetting works for a particular picture or not. With this picture I am editing, I decided not to include it as I like it the way it is. Next, I am going to go to the Lens Correction Panel and check the “Remove Chromatic Aberration” box. Chromatic Aberration is simply put, distortion of the lens. In a picture, you can see mostly chromatic aberration in dark edges next to bright images of an image. Its effect resembles more like a ghosting effect in purplish color. I would check also “Enable Profile Corrections” except there is no profile for OnePlus devices. There is however a profile for Samsung Galaxy phones and Google Pixel’s, just FYI.

    Phewwww, I am done with editing. ;) Let’s take a look at the before and after image.

    Like night and day ;)

    I would like to say a few words about the picture I chose. I chose this because it is a hard edit. I wanted to show you my fellow Community members a picture which was underexposed with a lot of noise on how to tackle this kind of problem which most of us probably experience. Most of you see the picture on a computer screen and say ewwww look at how nasty that picture is with all of this noise and dark areas which I can barely make out. Well, as I showed you here, nothing is impossible. Of course, the picture won't be picture perfect but at least you did the right editing to make it much better than your original picture. To make your editing life a lot easier, then follow theTips that I suggested to you. ;)
    Part II is still in the making and I will be editing a day time picture. So stay tuned for this. Follow me if you are interested in this guide.
    Before I part, I have a challenge for all of you who are up to it ;) The challenge is simple. I have the RAW file of this picture I edited, show me what you can do with this file. Maybe you guys will edit much better than me ;) We are all here to learn. So please, take the RAW file, show me your editing skills on how you would edit this picture, upload it to your Google Drive, share your link and let’s get this rollin’! :D
    Thank you everybody for visiting this thread and as always, go out there and shoot some pictures! :D

    Google Drive link to my RAW file: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PeOEpE4ftSL8qm7-9FSsH2pxXVXG7WaH

    @Ruby G. @Crystal Z.
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2018

  3. NeVeR_SeTTLe
    The Lab - OnePlus 6 Reviewer Nov 12, 2018

  4. camohan
    Assistant Head Moderator Assistant Head Moderator Nov 12, 2018

    otto2, Punk_69, Deepak.Si and 8 others like this.
    Ice Cream Sandwich Nov 12, 2018

    YASHPLUSONE , Nov 12, 2018 :
    I read 1/10th of the post and the first thing I notice was that this was all a scam [e]1f602[/e][e]1f602[/e][e]1f602[/e] I mean in no sense can I ever believe that these are real pictures. they are the best examples of optical illusion take the first pic for example even now it hurts my brain [e]1f602[/e] the extra dimension is something that is really hard for me to digest.
    all together by far you have done an excellent job! [e]1f609[/e]
    I will read as and when I can.
    keep up the great work. the humongous amount of time and effort you invested in this thread shines bright. I'll try to grasp as much as I can.
    and for all the lazy people or real Noobs like me who are just getting into photography I may write a really small point wise summary of the most important stuff of this thread, which would be easier for people to understand.
    until then.
    Yash [e]1f60a[/e]

    P.S. any mod pin this maybe it is really informative and helpful.
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2018

  6. NeVeR_SeTTLe
    The Lab - OnePlus 6 Reviewer Nov 12, 2018

    NeVeR_SeTTLe , Nov 12, 2018 :
    I will take this a compliment, hopefully :p

    Gor.V, YRJ, xnutzii and 9 others like this.
    Ice Cream Sandwich Nov 12, 2018

    YASHPLUSONE , Nov 12, 2018 :
    don't take it as otherwise, it is a compliment indeed.

  8. NeVeR_SeTTLe
    The Lab - OnePlus 6 Reviewer Nov 12, 2018

    NeVeR_SeTTLe , Nov 12, 2018 :
    Thank you.
    I tried to explain it the simplest way I can and I hope I did.
    If anybody has questions, they can always ask their questions here ;)

    Gor.V, YRJ, Anshu3110 and 6 others like this.
  9. miluisgood
    Froyo Nov 12, 2018

  10. NeVeR_SeTTLe
    The Lab - OnePlus 6 Reviewer Nov 12, 2018

    NeVeR_SeTTLe , Nov 12, 2018 :
    Thank you for visiting and reading :)

  11. Shivang Joshi
    The Lab Reviewer - OPPO Find N Nov 12, 2018

    Bouncer71, G_plusone and NeVeR_SeTTLe like this.
  12. NeVeR_SeTTLe
    The Lab - OnePlus 6 Reviewer Nov 12, 2018

    NeVeR_SeTTLe , Nov 12, 2018 :
    Finally it is, I am even happy about it LoL! :D
    Anyways, Part II is coming soon, so stay tuned :D

    Gor.V, Anshu3110, tpawan6 and 4 others like this.
  13. Shivang Joshi
    The Lab Reviewer - OPPO Find N Nov 12, 2018

    Shivang Joshi , Nov 12, 2018 :
    Yeah, I'm tuned in here:D

  14. msudz923
    Froyo Nov 12, 2018

    msudz923 , Nov 12, 2018 :
    Thank you so much for putting that together and sharing it with us. VERY much appreciated

  15. NeVeR_SeTTLe
    The Lab - OnePlus 6 Reviewer Nov 12, 2018

    NeVeR_SeTTLe , Nov 12, 2018 :
    You are welcome. Stay tuned for more goodies here ;)

    Gor.V, Deepak.Si, msudz923 and 3 others like this.
  16. Dresa91
    User of the Year 2016; Most Active User 2020 Community Expert Nov 12, 2018

    Bouncer71, SJBoss, G_plusone and 2 others like this.
  17. NeVeR_SeTTLe
    The Lab - OnePlus 6 Reviewer Nov 12, 2018

    Gor.V, Bouncer71, SJBoss and 3 others like this.
  18. G_plusone
    Nougat Nov 12, 2018

    Gor.V, YRJ, Shivang Joshi and 3 others like this.
  19. SJBoss
    The Lab Reviewer - OnePlus 10 Pro 5G Nov 12, 2018

    SJBoss , Nov 12, 2018 :
    I just skimmed through it cause I'm not really a camera guy but that's an Excellent guide tbh, Nice work (Bookmarked) Appreciate all the hard work you've put into this.

  20. NeVeR_SeTTLe
    The Lab - OnePlus 6 Reviewer Nov 12, 2018

    NeVeR_SeTTLe , Nov 12, 2018 :
    Thanks G ;)

    Thank you SJ ;) Much appreciated :)